Goblin Valley State Park is located in what looks like the middle of nowhere in Green River, Utah. Not knowing what laid in store for us, we stopped by this remarkable state park while traveling from Moab, Utah to Capital Reef National Park.
We learned about this small state park from a YouTube video of hikers we watch. We traveled West on Highway 70 and turned off on State Route 24. We had to take a couple of turns in the long stretch of Utah desert to reach it. In fact, on our way we questioned our GPS several times.
The mostly bleak landscape prior to reaching the park provides no indication of the amazing geological sandstone features that lie ahead. Even when arriving at the Visitor Center, you will question whether it is worth the $20 day entrance fee per car to visit.
However, hold onto your hats, because once you pay the fee and head inside the park, you will discover a playground that will hold your attention for hours.
Day Visit
By looking at the pictures of this astonishing park, you cannot imagine how fun it is to play among the goblins. There are signs that warn about falling and it seems there have been some injuries in the park. I can see why, as all I wanted to do when we arrived was climb around the goblins. Just pay attention and be aware while you are running amuck that the goblins, like any landscape feature, are eroding.
I am afraid we did climb and run and play amongst the goblins, against the sign warning. As you hike the valley past the smaller goblins, you reach the back walls where your imagination runs wild. I saw castles, moats, and fountains that must be investigated and explored.
As soon as we reached the back, we both went separate ways, searching, wandering, and climbing. We investigated crevices, walked bridges, and climbed hills. There is nothing quite like Goblin Valley State Park to make you feel five years old again.
We spent several hours traversing the goblins, laughing and playing. We only left when we heard thunder and saw rain in the background.
Hikes
If you must hike a designated route at the park, you have several choices. You have the ominous sounding Goblin’s Lair, which is 1.5 miles one way and considered strenuous. The moderate Carmel Canyon Loop and Entrada Canyon trails are both only 1.5 miles roundtrip.
And, if you want easy trails, you can hike the Curtis Bench Trail, 1.5 miles one way, or The Three Sisters which is only 250 yards.
We didn’t hike any of these trails. As soon as we parked at the main parking and saw all the goblins, we could not contain our excitement to go play among the goblins! Even Jessica did not want to hike on the outskirts or climb to views of the Valley. Instead we took off straight down to Goblin Valley.
Camping
Unfortunately, we only spent a day in this park. However, we believe it would be a great place to spend the night. Goblin Valley State Park is part of the International Dark Sky Park and we imagine the night sky at the park would leave you in awe. You can visit the park’s website for the Dark Sky Forecast to plan your uninterrupted views of the celestial sky.
The nightly fee for camping at the park is $45. This does include the $20 entrance fee. There are no hookups at the campground. But at the Visitor Center, the park has a water spigot that anyone can use to fill their fresh water tanks.
We would have stayed in the campground for a night if we had been pulling our travel trailer. To see the open night sky at this park and spend more time playing with the goblins would have been a blast! It was definitely better than the boondocking spot we picked right before Capital Reef National Park.
Playing in Goblin Valley State Park
Conclusion
It may not look like much when you are driving to this state park and you may not think it is worth visiting. But you will be surprised.
If you want to run, laugh, and play like children again, do not bypass this park. It is in the middle of nowhere and you might not think it is worth visiting. But you would be wrong.
When you do visit, plan on at least several hours to play among the goblins. Leave your adult self in the car. Instead, let the park transport you back to your childhood, where your imagination and playful nature takes control. You will be running, climbing, and giggling before you know it.
2024 will be our second year Workamping the Sugar Beet Harvest in Minnesota. Although we are not experts by any means, we do have some tips that we used last year and we plan to use again. Don’t get me wrong, working the harvest wears us out. About the fourth or fifth day in, I could curl up onto the beet pile and just sleep. I don’t even care if I am buried or not. But, I had only one really bad day where I cried over everything and then it was done.
Our main concern while working is to get as much sleep as possible. Sleep is very important to us. The less sleep you get, the more likely you are to get hurt or hurt someone else. So, the tips below are ones we will again be using this year to make our harvest easier.
Wear Shoes You Have Already Broken In
Because we hike a lot, we buy new hiking boots every year before we start adventuring in the Spring and Summer. We have done this for four years. However, now, instead of saving our old boots as backups, we use them at the Beet Harvest and then throw them away.
The safety ladies at the Beet Harvest recommend leather shoes. They provide more protection than the cloth hiking boots. However, we have had no issues with our waterproof Keen hiking boots. And, by October when we are working the harvest, our boots are well-broken in and very comfortable.
Wear Old or Used Clothing
By the end of the harvest last year, I was wearing red, bell-bottom yoga pants rolled up so I wouldn’t trip on them. Windell took a picture of me covered in dirt, red pants rolled into my white socks, and my hard hat on. Then he sent it to people I knew.
No one cares what you look like while working the harvest. You are going to be dirty and nasty. If you have to buy clothing, buy old ragged clothing from a yard sale or thrift store. Don’t spend a lot of money. This year I saved my orange yoga pants with holes in them. Again, I will be breaking a lot of fashion rules!
Also, I don’t wear bibs. While you are working, you have to use a porta potty. They do keep it pretty clean, but it is still a porta potty. I don’t want to have to undress too much to use the toilet. So, rather than wear bibs, I like a sweatshirt or coat and separate pants.
Layers, layers, layers. You will get cold, warm, and maybe even hot during your working shift. Don’t be afraid to wear lots of layers as you can always take one off if needed. And find an old jacket that will keep you warm in rain. You will be working in the elements and you don’t want to be miserable.
Last year, I actually found a long, waterproof coat to my ankles that had a hood. Everyone jokingly called it my bathrobe. Although we threw away most of our clothing, it was so comfortable that I kept it for this harvest.
We save our old clothing throughout the year as they rip or no longer fit. Even if we have to wear a belt to keep our pants from falling down, we keep them. Then, after wearing the same clothing for a few days while working the harvest, we simply throw them away. We don’t wash them.
We don’t do laundry while we are working. At our age, sleep is much too important and the clothes are not worth it. So, shop for cheap, separate tops and bottoms, lots of layers, and very old clothing that you don’t want to save.
Buy Hand Warmers
There is nothing better than having hand warmers in your gloves and shoes on a cold day. Purchase more than you think you will need. I was so thankful last year that we had stocked up on these small bits of warm and fuzzy. We had so many that if I wanted to put one in the lining of my hard hat on a really cold day, I did.
Bring lots of hand warmers and use them. I promise you will appreciate that little bit of comfort. Because Windell was in a heated forklift while I was standing in the elements, he didn’t need the handwarmers. Not that I’m a little jealous.
Food Preparation
I cook homemade soups in my electric pressure cooker. I love homemade soups because I can add all the spices and veggies that I want. Before we start working the harvest, I cook my soups, divide them into portions, refrigerate some, and freeze the rest. I love my beef and veggie soup and my cabbage soup with beef. Yum, yum!
Don’t plan on cooking or shopping while you are working. Have enough food already prepared for two weeks. Windell prefers canned food to my homemade soups. So, we also load up our pantry with canned beef stew, ravioli, etc. that is easy to heat up.
Having warm food on cold days will improve your mood tremendously while you are working. We both have a Stanley Soup Thermos that we put our hot food in for lunch and supper, and it stays warm for us. Again, it is just that little bit of warm and fuzzy that will make a big difference in your day.
While you are working, don’t forget your drinks. We have a seven-gallon jug in the back of the truck that we fill with water. I then easily fill my water bottle all day. Of course, Windell always has his sweet tea. Sometimes, just for a little extra coziness, I will heat up some hot tea before my shift and stick that in a thermos also.
Workamping the Sugar Beet Harvest is long hours outside in the elements for a few weeks. The job itself is not difficult. But, you do get tired and it can really dampen your mood, if you let it. Just a few preparations will make you feel a little better and may help you get through the harvest.
You will get tired and have bad days. Having a great team that you can rely on and they can rely on you will make this workamping job smoother for everyone. So, plan some creature comforts, forget domestic chores for a little while, and just focus on the job. Good luck and be safe!
The Sugar Beet Harvest is an amazing opportunity to earn quite a bit of money in just a few weeks. You can find out more information on Workamping the Sugar Beet Harvest at https://www.theunbeetableexperience.com/.
While visiting Sedona, Arizona we decided to hike to the Subway Cave. You have probably seen gorgeous pictures of this split floor cave and its amazing views. The pictures are correct. The cave is gorgeous with scenic views, and you will be glad you visited it. However, the hike to the cave and accessing the cave are an adventure unto themselves!
When we planned our 2024 trip, for some reason we decided to visit Arizona in July and August. It is hot! And, unfortunately for us, there is no ocean to play in nearby. So we made sure to arrive early for all of our hikes in Sedona, AZ.
The Subway Cave Trailhead
We found the parking lot, GPS 34°54’28.1″N 111°50’56.6″W, for the Boynton Canyon Trail and parked around six in the morning. The parking lot is easy to find, and has a vault toilet. There is a day fee, but you can use your America the Beautiful Pass.
Of course, all of the trail guides we read for the Subway Cave began by hiking the Boynton Canyon Trail until you reach the magic tree on the left. When you reach the magic tree, you turn right. Actually, we thought it would be harder to find the trail to the right, but we had no issues.
Turn Right at this tree for the Subway Cave Trail
The Boynton Canyon Trail that you start on from the parking lot is a pretty easy to moderate trail. We enjoyed hiking it and taking in the views of the gorgeous canyon walls. As we hiked, we recorded the rock around us.
I kept a picture on my phone of the tree where we were to turn right to hike to the cave. However, Windell had downloaded the trail map from Alltrails for the Subway Cave and it had the correct turn on its trail guide. The trailhead is easy to find and the path is easy all the way to the cave.
Getting into the Subway Cave
Once you reach the cave, then the trail becomes more difficult and sketchier. Windell and I knew from our research that there were two ways into the cave. When we first arrived, we attempted to climb the slick rock to the cave. However, midway we decided we might need to search for another route. However, this is when we became a little confused. The companions we had met on the trail continued on around the other side of the rock. We stopped, looking up at the slick rock entrance, contemplating what we should do. Neither of us wanted to fall and break something.
Our companions finally returned, saying they had not found a back way into the cave. Since being in the cave, we now know why. There are two entrances to the cave. You can climb up the slick rock to the middle of the floor of the cave. Or, you can hike up the trail to the cave ruins to the left, make a right, and walk along the edge to enter the Subway Cave. There is no back way. With my fear of heights, I looked up at the slick rock and knew I had to go up that way.
If you are a shorter person with not much upper body strength, like me, it helps if you have someone stronger with you. Luckily, Windell climbed behind me, grabbing my butt and lifting me onto the next area when I couldn’t reach it. I don’t know if I would have made it up the rock without his help. We were not the only ones climbing up the rock with difficulty, and I had no embarrassment issues crawling for part of the way.
To get back down the cave, we took the opposite side down, putting our butts against one side and using our legs to side scramble down the other side. I am sure if you research it a little more someone will have the best way of climbing up and scrambling back down the cave entrance. But we did the best we could. If Windell was recording while I was scrambling down, it is going to be a lot of fun to watch that YouTube video.
The Subway Cave in Sedona, Arizona is as gorgeous as the pictures online. The views from the cave mouth that is divided makes it a unique experience. If you, like us, have seen the pictures and want to hike it, do it. However, don’t be afraid to take someone else along if you think you might need help up the cave entrance. I would suggest you take someone that you don’t mind if they grab your butt. However, if you arrive at the cave entrance and do struggle, you will not be the only one. Other hikers will help you reach the cave floor!
Kanab, Utah is a magnificent place with many unique landscape features and very friendly people. We boondocked in this area for several days after visiting the North Rim Grand Canyon. We loved visiting Kanab and hearing the stories of relatives who starred in the Westerns filmed here. The area is located in the center of Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, North Rim Grand Canyon, and Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness. It is a fantastic area to explore and adventure.
What We Visited in Kanab
Sand Caves
There were several things on our to do list in Kanab. Peek-a-boo Slot Canyon, Sand Caves, Moqui Cave, and the Belly of the Dragon were high on our list. Our first stop in Kanab was the parking lot for the Sand Caves on Highway 89. This is a huge parking lot, GPS 37.11342, -112.55504, with a dumpster right off the highway. We believe there is a huge sign that says Sand Caves before you reach the parking lot, but we can’t remember if it was heading north or south.
From the parking lot, we easily found the trailhead. However, after the trailhead there are several trail split offs. We started hiking along one trail, hoping it would lead to the Sand Caves. On our return, we hiked a completely different path back and accidently took the one marked “Not the Trail”. Although there were many side paths and the main trail was not well marked, we still made it to the bottom of the rock of the Sand Caves with no issues.
Upon reaching the bottom of the rock, it was a little more difficult to find a path up to the Sand Caves. You can see the Sand Caves on the trail, so you know where you need to be, but we were unsure on how to scale the rock. So, we simply walked along the bottom of the rock until we found a good spot to start climbing. While hiking up the rock, there is one section we reached that is very vertical and slick. Windell held Jessica’s hand across this sketchy section so she wouldn’t slide down the rock, as she is prone to falling.
The Sand Caves are amazing. You will enjoy exploring the cave and crawling through the small opening like a child. Although not elaborate or glamorous, the cave is well worth the trail confusion and slick rock to hike to it. We actually enjoyed guessing which path to take to the Sand Caves, deciding how we were going to climb the rock, and exploring the cave. Make sure to add this sight to your list when visiting Kanab.
Moqui Cave
We expected Moqui Cave to be touristy, with lots of T-shirts and ball camps. However, when we researched it on Google, the internet said it contained collections of dinosaur tracks, minerals, and an old bar where alcohol was served. We were pleasantly surprised that the cave does indeed contain many amazing artifacts and the curator explains the history of the cave and the Chamberlain family.
The history of Garth Chamberlain who purchased the cave in 1951 is a fascinating one that you will learn when you visit the cave. When the famous actors of the Western movies wanted a bar, Garth Chamberlain created one in the cool interior of the cave. You will see many wood carvings of some of these famous actors hanging in the now closed bar and learn a little bit more about Garth in the process.
The other collections of curious items in the cave is worth the admission price. The darkened room with the glowing minerals was one of our favorite collections. And, of course, we loved the dinosaur tracks and the memoribilia in the bar area.
The family of Garth Chamberlain still own the cave. We met the current owner in the gift shop and enjoyed talking with him and hearing a bit of his and his family’s background. In addition to touring the cave and all the cool artifacts, right outside the cave, you can order food and book a guide tour, which we did.
Peek-a-Boo or Red Canyon Slot
While speaking with the owner of Moqui Cave, we happened upon the subject of where we were going next. We mentioned that we wanted to visit Peek-a-Boo slot canyon. The owner told us we could not drive to the canyon because of the sand and the hike would be hard in the heat. So, he offered to book us on a Jeep or UHV tour with ROAM Outdoor Adventure Co to the canyon for that day.
The UHV tour lets you drive one vehicle while the guide is in a separate UHV behind you. We bet this would be a blast playing in the sand while you drive to the slot canyon. However, we opted for the Jeep tour driven by the guide.
Wow! Riding in the Jeep through the thick sand was a blast! It was our first off-road Jeep tour and we would do it again in a heartbeat. Our truck would not have made it to the slot canyon, and hiking it would have been miserable.
While playing in the sand, our super-friendly tour guide stopped several times to give water to people stuck in the sand. Obviously, they did not talk to the locals before attempting the drive. One family even tried to drive their diesel truck through the sand. Boy, were we appreciative we booked the Jeep Tour.
Being from Kanab, our guide told us stories of visiting the canyon with friends and scaring their girlfriends. We were actually surprised he was happily married after the stories. But he was an awesome guide and we could not have picked a better person to lead us on this tour. He took lots of pictures of us in the canyon and even offered his photography services to other people passing. We had so much fun on this tour, and do not regret forking out the money.
Peek-a-boo canyon is a beautiful small slot canyon. Its walls and rock features had us oohing and awing. Since hiking the Peek-a-Boo slot canyon, we have visited Antelope Canyon. Although Antelope Canyon is more beautiful to us, our awesome experience in Peek-a-Boo was enhanced by the smaller tour group, more friendly guides, and the personal touch of the tour, in addition to a beautiful slot canyon.
Belly of the Dragon
Our final stop in Kanab was at the Belly of the Dragon parking lot GPS 37.21154, -112.6844. We have to say inside this cave looks exactly like the Google search pictures. It really does look like you have been swallowed by a dragon and you are working your way to his belly. The cave becomes quite dark in the center, and Jessica tripped over a rock. Bring a flashlight for safety while hiking through the cave. We had a lot of fun pretending to be dragon food in this distinctive cave and you will also.
What We Missed In Kanab
The Wave
When we return to Kanab, Utah, there are more items on our list to do. If we ever plan our trip to this area again, we will apply for a permit to hike the Wave, GPS 36.99593, -112.00625, in the Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness. Although this is on our bucket list, you must apply and be awarded the permit for Coyote Buttes North. You can apply for this permit four months in advance or try to win a daily lottery. We are not big on jumping through hoops and entering lotteries that you cannot reschedule. Every year, our plans change mid-trip and we hate to spend too much money on an uncertain adventure.
Dinosaur Tracks Trailhead
We love dinosaur tracks and we were so excited when we saw our first ones in Moab, Utah. But we decided not to hike to the dinosaur tracks after viewing the pictures of the hike posted on Google. To be honest, there are dinosaur tracks everywhere in Utah and Arizona, and we have stopped at a few sites to check them out. So, we bypassed this trail at GPS 37.08657, -112.53925.
South Fork Indian Canyon Trailhead
We have this trail on our Google Map. This trail in the Moquith Mountain Wildenerness supposedly has pictographs and gorgeous rock features. It is less than a mile in length with only 278 feet of elevation. The trailhead is located at GPS 37.06545, -112.65193 and the hike is listed in Alltrails. Again, we have seen many pictographs while traveling this year, and we decided to also skip this trail for the time being.
Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
Sand seems to be a recurring theme in Arizona and Utah. Although we boondocked very near the park, we never visited the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. However, we believe this would be a fabulous place for UHVs and Jeeps to play. The color of the sand around the area is definitely unique and beautiful. If we were ever to rent a UHV or Jeep, we would go play in the sand at this state park.
The White Wave
The White Wave trail is north of Kanab on Highway 89. Although the pictures of this trail do not look as beautiful as the famous permitted Wave, it may be worth hiking it and seeing it on your own. The varying rock features in Utah hold our attention, and we expect this trail to be no different. The GPS coordinates are 37.19385, -112.58015. The White Wave is in the same area as Peek-a-Boo Canyon, so you might want to check it out at the same time. You may also be able to book a tour that includes both the White Wave and the Peek-a-Boo Canyon.
Elkheart Cliffs Slot Canyon
We love slot canyons. While traveling through Utah and Arizona, we did not visit all the slot canyons we listed on our map. Sometimes the conditions at the time were not favorable. Also, we pick and choose what are our major items to see in an area and save the others for a future visit. The Elkheart Cliffs Slot Canyon, GPS 37.19807, -112.65847 is one such item. The hike is near the Belly of the Dragon cave that we did visit and should be very near Highway 89.
A Lot to See in Kanab, Utah
Kanab, Utah, is a fantastic place to visit with many cool features and some great folklore. If you visit this area, be sure and talk to the locals. They are friendly, knowledgeable people who will help you out and give you suggestions.
While staying in this area, we boondocked at Hancock Road Dispersed Camping, GPS 37.1364, -112.5997. Hancock Road is right outside Pink Sand Dunes State Park. You can read our blog on our dispersed camping in Utah.
Figure-8 Combination, 6.4 miles, 1575 feet elevation gain, strenuous, this hike combines three hikes: Queen’s Garden,
Navajo Loop, and the Peekaboo Loop
Natural Bridge Overlook, short walk to overlook, Mile 12.25 of the 18 mile Southern Scenic Drive
Hikes We Missed:
Mossy Cave Trail, .8 miles, 150 feet elevation gain, easy
Fairy Land Loop Trail, 8 miles, 1900 feet elevation gain, strenuous
Visiting Bryce Canyon
We originally bypassed Bryce National Park to arrive earlier at Zion. However, while driving through the area and seeing the gorgeous colors in the rocks, we knew we had to return and visit this national park. This is a park you must visit to see the hoodoos, the irregular columns of rocks. The hoodoos have layers of colors that make them jaw-dropping beautiful. Cameras do not do it justice.
If you are an early riser or enjoy sunsets, Sunrise Point at Bryce Canyon is said to be an amazing spot to sit and watch the sun glide over the hoodoos. Unfortunately, as we were truck camping without our RV, we did not arise and pack up early enough or stay late enough to see this phenomenon. However, this is on our list when we return to Bryce Canyon.
When you visit the park, also check out Sunset Point. It is in the same parking area as Sunrise Point and many trailheads. Sunset Point offers some of the most famous and breathtaking views of Bryce Canyon’s hoodoos. Per the NPS. gov website, “Nowhere are the colors of Bryce Canyon’s rock better displayed than from Sunset Point”.
Hikes in Bryce Canyon
Originally, we planned to hike the Queen’s Garden Trail, the Navajo Loop Trail, and the Peekaboo Loop Trail separately. However, after reading about the Figure 8 trail that combines all three trails into a more challenging trail, Jessica wanted to try it.
The Queen’s Garden Trail is a lovely trail that begins at Sunrise Point. You hike through hoodoos and rock archways. Simply walking from the parking lot to the trailhead you have astounding views of Wall Street and the colorful hoodoos. Although we enjoyed our hike through Queen’s Garden, Peekaboo Loop blew us away.
The Peekaboo Loop was our favorite part of the Figure 8 trail. The overlooks as you hike up provide you with the most gorgeous views of the hoodoos. We still remember the beauty of this trail. Unfortunately, there are a lot of horses and mules on this trail. We had to stand aside a couple of times to let them pass and then sidestep the remains of the animals. Otherwise, this is a must do hike in Bryce Canyon.
The Figure 8 Combination Hike ended with the Navajo Loop Trail. We won’t lie. We were tired by the time we reached the end of this trail. However, this trail has impressive and unique rock features not found on the other trails. The Navajo Loop also contains the park’s most famous hoodoo: Thor’s hammer. At the end of the trail, we stopped at a huge area between the rock to cool down before attempting the Wall Street switchbacks.
While in the park, be sure to stop at mile 12.25 along the Southern Scenic Drive. You will want to see Natural Bridge, which is a majestic arch at Bryce Canyon. The arch is huge and well worth the stop to see.
Dispersed Camping
While visiting Bryce Canyon National Park, we boondocked at Tom’s Best Spring Dispersed Camping in the Dixie National Forest GPS: 37.728, -112.2487. Right off Highway 12, you turn onto a gravel road. As we were only in the truck we turned into the first right for smaller designated campsites. However, larger rigs can continue further down the gravel road for a campground with larger sites.
We enjoyed this campground and would easily leave our little travel trailer unattended. It is quiet and no one bothered us. In fact, the couple in the Class A parked at the first campsite came over to say hi and introduce themselves. The campground is about half an hour away from Bryce Canyon.
We really did not expect Canyonlands National Park to impress us as much as it did. The main reason we visited Moab, Utah, was to see Arches National Park. However, Canyonlands is a gorgeous national park with beautiful views, arches, and cool geological features.
As usual, our first stop was at the national park’s Visitor’s Center at the Island in the Sky section of the park. We always stops at visitor centers to speak with a Ranger and find recommendations for points of interest and best hikes. We already planned to hike the Mesa Arch Trail and the Grand View Point Trail, but he also suggested the Upheavel Dome Trail. He also recommended that we stop at various overlooks, including the Green River Overlook.
Canyonlands National Park has three main sections: Island in the Sky, The Needles, and The Maze. We only visited the Island in the Sky section, although we have a couple of future hikes we want to try in The Needles. However, the Maze is the most remote section of Canyonlands. Some of the trails in this area require 4-wheel drive to access. We don’t currently have any plans to hike the Maze area, as it requires more planning and backpacking.
Island in the Sky Area
We are unsure which hike we completed was our favorite. We loved the hikes to Mesa Arch, Upheavel Dome, and the Grand View. None of the three hikes were strenous and we completed them all in one day. Mesa Arch is a cool arch with a scenic view through it. It is a very easy hike and we enjoyed posing in front of the arch. We then walked around, exploring and observing the different perspectives of the overlook and the arch.
However, the Upheavel Dome Trail is amazing. We were unsure what to make of the geologic abnormality. Per the signs we read at the dome, no one is sure how the Upheavel Dome came to be although there are currently two theories. The two theories are the Salt Dome Theory and the Impact Crater Theory. There are two overlooks for the Upheavel Dome. After hiking to the first overlook, you can backtrack a little and hike to the second overlook, which is a little more challenging. The second overlook, however, provides you with a different angle of the dome and we are glad we hiked it.
The busiest trail we hiked in Canyonlands was the Grand View Point Trail. When you arrive at the end, you have the opportunity to rock scramble a little for some higher views. Plan to explore the area around this trail; it has spectactular views that vary depending on which side you stand. The Grand View Point Trail is currently closed on weekdays from August to September 2024.
The one hike in the Island in the Sky Area that we did not do that was on our list is the Aztec Butte Trail. This trail supposedly leads to an ancient granary built into an alcove. However, per hiker feedback, some rock scrambling is required and the trail is not well marked in places. So, maybe it was good that we skipped it!
Canyonlands National Park is a fascinating national park to visit. Although, Arches National Park is more popular, while staying in Moab, Utah, take the time to visit this national park and check out its cool features.
While visiting Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park, we boondocked in the truck at a designated campground in Mill Canyon. Per the Campendium app, it is Gemini Bridges Road Designated Campsites GPS 38.7114, -109.7271. The designated campsites are past the Mill Canyon Dinosaur Track campground. The pictures in Campendium show fifth wheels and travel trailers. However, we did not drive up towards the rock to check out this camping, but instead drove down further on a very bumpy Cotter Mine Road to a designated site with only the truck. The road is rough and we would not take our travel trailer to the campsites further on this road. We did enjoy waking up the view of hot air balloons in the morning at this boondocking!
Delicate Arch Trail, 3.2 miles, elevation gain 629 feet, moderate
Double Arch Trail, .6 miles, elevation gain 95 feet, easy
Landscape Arch Trail, 1.9 miles, elevtion gain 252 feet, easy
Windows and Turret Arch Trail, 1.2 miles, elevation gain 154 feet, easy
Hikes we missed but plan to do in the future:
Fiery Furnace and Surprise Arch Trail, 2.1 miles, elevation gain 492 feet, moderate – this hike requires a permit and a good offline map
Devil’s Garden Trail, 7.9 miles, elevation gain 1085 feet, hard – this hike does require climbing some slick rock
Our Visit to Arches National Park
Arches National Park was our second favorite place while visiting Utah. Arches is an amazing national park with lots of cool hikes to various arches. The park currently enforces a timed entry reservation system to limit the number of people entering from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Although you can purchase tickets months in advance, the park releases some tickets the day before, and we had no issues securing passes the day before our visits. You can purchase a timed entry pass on Recreation.gov.
We spent a couple of days in Arches National Park, hiking and exploring arches. Our favorite hike in Arches is the Delicate Arch Hike. The hike is three miles and considered strenuous. You will need water on this trail, especially during hotter weather. However, reaching and posing under the Delicate Arch makes this hike memorable. Do not forget to check out some amazing petroglyphs at the beginning of this trail.
During our visit to Arches, we also hiked Double Arch, Windows and Turret Arches, Landscape Arch, Broken Arch, and Sand Dune Arch Trails. Our favorite arches, besides Delicate Arch, are Double Arch and Landscape Arch. The short hike to Double Arch was worth seeing this amazing arch. We enjoyed plopping a squat underneath this striking arch while we cooled down. People climb up the interior of this arch and sit and reflect.
We had plans to hike the entire Devils Garden Trail. We hiked to Landscape Arch. However, after Landscape, the trail goes up the rock to Double O Arch. Some people hiked up the rock with no issues. However, after starting this portion of the hike, we decided it was not worth falling or hurting ourselves. So, we hiked back down the rock and decided to be content that we had seen Landscape Arch.
Besides completing the Devils Garden Trail, we also plan to hike the Fiery Furnace when we return to Arches National Park. You must have a permit for this hike. You can accompany a Ranger-guided tour or apply for a self-guided exploration permit. Per our understanding of the Fiery Furnace hike, it is easy to get lost on this hike. There are many possible paths, dead ends, and no GPS. This will be a compass and offline downloaded map hike when we return.
Boondocking at Moab, Utah
While visiting Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park, we boondocked in the truck at a designated campground in Mill Canyon. Per the Campendium app, it is Gemini Bridges Road Designated Campsites GPS 38.7114, -109.7271. The designated campsites are past the Mill Canyon Dinosaur Track campground. The pictures in Campendium show fifth wheels and travel trailers. However, we did not drive up towards the rock to check out this camping, but instead drove down further on a very bumpy Cotter Mine Road to a designated site with only the truck. The road is rough and we would not take our travel trailer to the campsites further on this road. We did enjoy waking up the view of hot air balloons in the morning at this boondocking!
Spruce Tree HouseMesa Verde National ParkCliff Palace Mesa Verde National Park
Traveling through the Southwestern portion of Colorado, we planned a visit to the Mesa Verde National Park to view the cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Pueblo people. However, some unexpected surprises came with a visit to this national park.
Because we were pulling our travel trailer while visiting the park, we believed we would have to camp overnight in the Morefield Campground. The Mesa Verde National Park does not allow any trailers past the campground. After traveling through the park to Chapin Mesa, we can understand why. The road is very curvy and narrow.
The Morefield Campground fee is $20 per night. If you have a Senior Pass or Access Pass, the fee is $10 per night. However, we discovered, to our delight, a drop off parking lot for trailers right before the entrance to the national park. The trailer parking lot is free. Park security drive through it throughout the day and we had no issues leaving our camper.
Our second surprise about the Mesa Verde National Park is that you cannot tour the cliff dwellings without a reservation, except for the Step House per the map. However, more on the Step House area later. We stopped at the Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum to see if any tickets were available to tour the cliff dwellings. The Ranger informed us that reservations must be made two weeks prior because they sell out quickly. You may be fortunate to grab a ticket if there is a cancellation for the day. But we were not that lucky.
So, if you do visit Mesa Verde National Park, and you do want to tour the cliff dwellings, be sure to register for a tour two weeks prior to when you are visiting on Recreation.gov. Do not do what we did and just show up thinking you can tour the cliff dwellings.
Now, back to the Step House. When we were there on July 7, 2024, the Wetherill Mesa that contains the Step House and the Long House was closed. The Step House is the only dwelling per the national park map that you can do a self-guiding tour. So, because we had no reservations for the cliff dwelling tours and the Wetherill Mesa was closed, we did not actually have the chance to enter any cliff dwellings.
Lomayestewa Family Dancers
One amazing thing we did get to see on our visit was the Lomayestewa Family Dancers. The Lomayestewa Family perform traditional Hopi dances once a year in the park in July. The cost is free. However, the dancers do ask for donations to help with the cost of traveling. We really enjoyed watching the young people dance while the older generations played the instruments. Towards the end, the family encourages spectators to join the dance. This was an opportunity Jessica could not miss, and she jumped up to join. We gave our word we would not post any pictures or videos of the dances, as they are traditional Hopi dances. However, if you ever find us and want to see the video, let us know.
Because we were unable to join any tours of the cliff dwellings, we drove the Mesa Top Trail and the Cliff Palace Loop. We stopped at most of the pull-offs on these loops to see various advantage points of the cliff dwellings and tour the pit houses. The Cliff Palace Loop was our favorite and has the best overlook for the Cliff Palace. However, the Balcony House pull-off is a bust unless you have reservations for the tour. You cannot see the Balcony House from this point.
The Mesa Verde National Park is worth seeing. However, we recommend if you are physically able, reserve a tour for the cliff dwellings. Otherwise, like us, you may only be able to see them from overlooks. If you visit this national park, also look out for the wild horses that roam inside it. After visiting the park, we decided to boondock overnight at the Super Walmart in Cortez, CO with many other RVs.
Scout Overlook Trail, Shuttle Stop #6 The Grotto, 3.6 miles, 1115 feet elevation gain, hard – be sure and hike a mile past Scout Overlook on the West Rim Trail for some more amazing views
The Narrows Bottom-Up Day Trail, Shuttle Stop #9 Temple of Sinawava, as many miles as you can hike, very little elevation gain
The Watchman Trail, right at Visitors Center, 3.1 miles, 636 feet elevation gain
Hikes We Missed but Plan to Do:
Zion Canyon Overlook Trail, .9 miles, 157 feet elevation gain, it is located on the east side of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel and can be tricky to find parking
Observation Point via East Mesa Trailhead, 7 miles, 702 feet elevation gain, the East Mesa Trailhead on the East side of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel via Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort GPS 37.29698, -112.90013
Our favorite place to visit in Utah is Zion National Park. We stayed in the area for a couple of weeks in mid to late May, hoping to avoid the crowds during the busier summer months. We dispersed camped fifteen minutes away from Zion at Hurricane Cliffs Designated Dispersed Campsites GPS 37.2072, -113.2402. Zion is extremely crowded. Every day we visited the park, we arrived early in the morning to find parking in the RV/oversize lot with our dually truck. The Visitor Center opens at 8 a.m. but the shuttles begin running at 6 a.m. Do note that the parking lots fill up fast! There is a free shuttle service from Springdale into the park, if the Zion parking lot is full. However, we had no issues finding parking by arriving before or around 8 a.m.
We now know why Zion National Park is so popular. It is gorgeous! We completed the Scout Overlook Trail, The Narrows bottom-up day Trail, the Watchman Trail, and all three of Emerald Pool trails. We did not attempt to gain a permit for the famous Angels Landing Trail. With her current fear of heights, Jessica did not feel comfortable attempting this hike. But who knows what the future will bring.
Scout Lookout Trail
However, even if you do not want to hike Angels Landing, the Scout Lookout Trail is amazing. This is now Windell’s favorite hike, displacing the Fremont Fire Tower in Mount Rainier National Park. The Scout Lookout Trail is a strenuous trail and we took a lot of breaks on Walter’s Wiggles. The Lookout is gorgeous. We stopped and took in the inspiring view before continuing on the West Rim Trail. Hiking a mile or so further on West Rim Trail past Scout Lookout provides even better views of Angel’s Landing and different perspectives of the canyon. If you still have the energy after Scout Lookout, we encourage you to continue on the West Rim Trail. It is well worth the hike.
The Narrows Bottom-Up Day Trail
Jessica’s now favorite hike to date is the Narrows bottom-up day hike. Although we did not feel comfortable attempting the hike when the water flow was 124 cubic feet per second, we did attempt it the second week when it dropped to 84 cubic feet per second. We are glad we waited. Especially Jessica who still fell into the water three times hiking back.
It was our first time hiking over ten miles while crossing a river through a canyon and it took our breath away, sometimes literally with the current and cold water. The Narrows has been on our bucket list for four years, and we are grateful we finally hiked it. There is no set endpoint to this hike. You hike as far as you want upstream and turn around wherever you want to hike back downstream with the current. We recommend this hike to anyone visiting Zion, although it is more enjoyable earlier in the morning with fewer people.
The Watchman Trail
The Watchman hike right at the parking lot introduces you to the gorgeous canyon of Zion and was recommended to us by a ranger. This trail gets busy, but if you go early, you can have some time at the top to sit alone and reflect a moment. There is also a short scenic loop trail at the end. The Watchman Trail is considered an easy to moderate hike that can be completed in around two hours. We hiked the Watchman trail and all three Emerald Pools in the same day.
The Emerald Pool Trails
The Emerald Pool trails were a disappointment to us. We hiked these trails later in the morning and into the early afternoon in mid-May 2024. The trails are very busy and the pools themselves are not very epic. The waterfalls may flow better at different seasons, and maybe the pools are prettier then. Early spring, late fall, and winter are recommended as the best times to visit these pools. If you like strenuous hikes, as Jessica does, you may enjoy the hikes to these pools and the lower pool does have a small waterfall you can walk behind. To hike the Emeralds Pools, get off the shuttle at Stop #6, The Grotto. The hike is considered moderate, although hiking to all three pools gave our legs a workout. It is only three miles with 620 feet of elevation gain.
Other To-Do Hikes in Zion
The only hikes we missed that were on our to- do list during our first trip to Zion were The Observation Point Trail and the Canyon Overlook Trail. Both trails are supposed to provide amazing views of the Canyon. However, it was not meant for us to hike these trails due to the Weeping Rock shuttle stop closure and the difficulty of parking.
There are two ways to access Observation Point. It is a moderate hike at East Zion via the East Mesa Trailhead from the Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort. The parking lot and trailhead are on the the east side of the Zion-Mount Carmel tunnel. The hike is seven miles with 702 feet of elevation gain. We had planned to hike to Observation Point from the Weeping Rock Trailhead, which is Shuttle Stop #7 within the park. During our visit in May 2024, the Weeping Rock shuttle stop was closed due to rockfall. It has been closed since 2019. So, we decided to leave the Observation Point Trail until the next time we returned to Zion.
It was also in our plan to hike the moderate Canyon Overlook Trail. This trail is less than a mile in distance and was on our way out of the park. However, while awaiting our turn to drive through the tunnel on East Zion, we spoke with the Ranger. She said it would be difficult for us to find parking with our dually and that the parking lot was for smaller vehicles. We looked, but did not find any parking for this trail after passing through the tunnel, so we continued on our way to Bryce National Park.
Zion National Park is extremely busy, and we are not particularly fond of crowds. However, if you are in Utah, this national park is a must to visit. The canyons, mountains, and views will take your breath away. Zion National Park exceeded our expectations in its beauty.
Hiking The Watchman Peak Trail, Crater Lake, OregonAwesome! Thor’s Well Cape Perpetua in Oregon
Oregon remains one of our favorite states to explore with its beautiful coastline, spectacular waterfalls, and amazing hikes. We had a blast adventuring in Oregon and plan to return one day to continue exploring this state.
Our favorite Adventuring in Oregon
Oregon Coast
Cape Perpetua Area
This was Jessica’s favorite area on the coast of Oregon. She could watch Thor’s Well for hours. Right off Highway 101 is a pull off for the overlook for Spouting Horn. However, to get a better view of Spouting Horn and to walk further to see Thor’s Well, hike a little ways down from the overlook. It is easy to find the trail. The GoPro does not do this area justice. In person, watching Thor’s Well and the Spouting Horn, you can see the starfish inside and hear the rumble as the waves move through the caves below.
Once you have your fill of the Spouting Horn area, you can hike north from Spouting Horn to Devil’s Churn or turn off onto the overlook pulloff and hike the short ways down. As the tide comes in, the swirling, forceful waves travel onto the beach beside Devil’s Churn and smash against the walls of Devil’s Churn. It is an amazing view. We could spend days in this area watching the force of the tides and playing on the rocks.
Natural Bridges
Windell’s favorite spot on the Oregon Coast was the Natural Bridges Area. Hiking down from the viewpoint to stand on the rock arch below is not as apparent as the hike to Thor’s Well. However, it was not difficult to find the path. You must make a right turn to hike down through some thick foliage to access the bridge. Once we reached near the bridge, we turned to the left to explore the rocky coast a little more. Another couple was on the arch and we were hoping we could have it to ourselves. However, the couple was still there when we finished exploring, so we went ahead and hiked down to stand on the arch. This is a gorgeous area that could be better captured with a drone.
Just north of Natural Brides is a parking lot with a hike that leads to Secret Beach. You can even hike from Natural Bridges to this parking lot. The hike to Secret Beach is not well-defined, but definitely worth trying. Just remember to follow the sign that says “Beach” although the path seems to take you away from the beach. We spent hours playing on the beach after following a few wrong trails on the hike.
Gray Whale Watching Charter
We were lucky while visiting Oregon that we happened to be during the best time to see gray whales. So, we flew by the seat of our pants and purchased tickets for a boat charter for whale-watching. We will never forget our experience of being so close to these magnificent giants in our small boat with only four other guests and a captain. This last minute decision taught us to seize some opportunities without too much thinking. If we had waited too long, we would not have seen the gray whales. And, we had the best day. We will always be on the lookout for whale-watching charters when we can find them.
Columbia River Gorge
The Columbia River Gorge is a tremendous area for waterfalls. Besides the impressive Multnomah Falls, Jessicas favorite waterfall, Tunnel Falls, plus several more waterfalls are on the Eagle Creek Trail GPS 45.63676, -121.9196. This is not the only trail in the area with several waterfalls. There are many more in this area that we plan to hike when we return. Next time we plan to hike Horsetail Falls Trail GPS 45.59011, -122.06928 to Pony Tail Falls, the Wahkeena Falls Trail GPS 45.57602, -122.12782, and any more that we discover. This is an amazing area for adventuring and we cannot wait to return and explore more.
While exploring this area, we were RVing an hour away at Mt Hood Village RV Resort 65000 US-26, Welches, OR 97067. We choose this campground because we wanted to explore other areas in the south, including Silver Falls State Park and Mount Hood. However, the Portland Fairview RV Park 21401 NE Sandy Blvd, Fairview, OR 97024 is a lot closer to the Columbia River Gorge, and we would choose it next time. The Portland Fairview is an Encore Park at $20 per night with the Trails Collection.
Crater Lake National Park
We were blown away by Crater Lake National Park. We actually hiked three different trails in the one day we visited. Amongst the Cleetwood Cove Trail, The Watchman Peak Trail, and The Garfield Peak Trail, our favorite was The Garfield Peak Trail. The deep, rich color of the lake in the crater of a volcano is just an amazing sight. The Watchman Peak Trail is a fantastic trail to see Wizard Island from above, but the Garfield Peak Trail was our favorite for an overall view of the lake.
We have not finished adventuring in Oregon. There is so much to see and do. In addition to exploring more in the Columbia River Gorge, we also want to visit the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, hike to more waterfalls, and see more of the rocky coastline. When we return, we will also have to visit the Cape Perpetua Area and Natural Bridges again.
