Baby, It’s Hot Traveling Through Arizona!
No one ever said we were the sharpest knives in the drawer. And traveling through Arizona in July and August supported this fact. While planning our truck camping adventure for this year, we originally planned to visit Arizona, Utah, and Colorado while sleeping in the back of our truck. We thought we would be more flexible in our travels and adventuring without the camper.
However, our plans did not work out. Although we loved all the cool things we did in Utah and Wyoming, we hated truck camping. So, we decided to pick up our travel trailer in Colorado and head to Arizona for some of our planned adventures. Traveling through Arizona in July and August was a whole experience unto itself that we hope to never repeat.
Although it was blazingly hot, we did see some bucket list things and have some fun in Arizona.
Our Traveling through Arizona:
- North Rim Grand Canyon
- Bright Angel Point Trail, .5 miles
- Uncle Jim Trail, 4.7 miles, 730 feet elevation
- Navajo National Monument
- Tuba City Dinosaur Track
- Antelope Canyon
- Upper Antelope Canyon
- Lower Antelope Canyon
- Sedona
- Devil’s Bridge Hike via Dry Creek Road, 3.9 miles, 521 feet elevation
- Subway Cave Hike via Boynton Canyon Trail, 7.1 miles, 1100 feet elevation
Boondocking and Campgrounds:
- Kaibob National Forest – Lots of free camping per our Campendium App
- Navajo National Monument – free paved campsites, maximum stay at one time 7 days
- NavajoLand Tuba City R.V. Park – less than $40 a night with full-hookups, AARP discount
- Thousand Trails Verde Valley, Cottonwood, AZ – super friendly staff who helped us out a lot
Why We visited Arizona in the Heat of Summer
Although we knew it was hot, we started traveling through Arizona in July. We had already booked tours for both the Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon and we didn’t want to cancel them. So, after our tours we decided to continue traveling in Arizona to the Thousand Trails in Cottonwood. There are a couple of hikes that we really wanted to do in Sedona. Originaly, we planned to stay only a week in the heat and then book it back to Colorado.
Our plans took a nose-dive when our truck wouldn’t start at the campground. Luckily, the Ford Dealership is only five miles away from the TT campground and we easily had it towed. Lucky enough (or maybe unlucky as our truck is not that old), the repairs were all covered by warranty.
However, this unexpected curve-ball meant we had to stay in the heat for three more weeks, a month in total at the campground. We are not used to this level of heat during the day! When you Full-Time RV, you have more choice about climates. So, we had become accustomed to milder climates. Needless to say, we had to adjust our daily routine while sitting in Arizona.
For the entire month we sat at Cottonwood, we hiked early in the mornings. Then, we sat in the camper with the Air Conditioner on all afternoon. After 6 p.m., it cools down enough again to enjoy being outside.
The Stunning Places We Saw in Arizona
The North Rim Grand Canyon
Arizona has some amazing geological features and remnants of ancient life. We finally saw the Grand Canyon at an age when we could both remember it! We did not travel to the South Rim, but we did visit the North Rim. A few people we met recommended the North Rim as it is less busy. We completed two hikes that we enjoyed immensely at the Grand Canyon.
Bright Angel Point Trail
Our favorite hike on the North Rim was the Bright Angel Point Trail. It is accessible right past the Lodge. The views on this trail took our breath away. Returning from the Bright Angel Point Trail, we also took the Transept Trail a little ways to walk out to some more amazing overlooks. I believe the Bright Angel Point Trail is currently closed for some repairs.
Uncle Jim Trail
While at the North Rim, we also hiked Ken Patrick Trail to the Uncle Jim Loop Trail. The parking lot for the Ken Patrick Trail is also the parking lot for the North Kaibob Trail. Vehicles longer than 20 feet are not allowed in the parking lot, so we had to find some side parking around this area.
We walked clockwise on the Uncle Jim Trail. The best views of the Canyon are towards the end of this trail if you also hike clockwise. We stopped for our epic lunch spot while taking in the view. This trail surprised us with the views at the end.
One thing you do need to be aware of on this trail is the horses and mules. You will be walking through the wastes left behind. Although not ideal, we didn’t let it spoil our fun.
We did have on our list to also hike the North Kaibob Trail to the Supai Tunnel. However, our boondocking site was forty minutes away in the Kaibob National Forest and we decided to save this trail for another trip. I believe there is dispersed camping closer to the park but we really like our cell service.
While visiting the North Rim, we did see buffalo. They crossed the road right in front of the truck. This made the adventure even more incredible. Can you ever get tired of seeing buffalo or bison?
Navajo National Monument
We knew nothing about the Navajo National Monument. We actually discovered this little gem by accident while traveling through Arizona. When we pulled up our Campendium app to find a place for the night, and this national monument campground popped up.
The Navajo National Monument has a paved, free campground that you can stay in for seven days. Although the sites are not level, they do provide heated restrooms and trash receptacles. We ended up staying at this campground for three nights, relaxing and exploring the park.
On our second day we visited the Visitor Center, bought some postcards and chatted with the employee for a while. We hiked the three self-guided trails in the Monument. The Sandal Trail is 1.3 miles roundtrip. At the end of the trail, you can see the Betatakin Cliff Dwelling. It is better to see these cliff dwelling in the afternoon, as later in the day, the sun exposes the cliff dwelling. Whereas in the morning, the dwelling is in the shadows.
The Aspen Trail is .8 miles, but it is a little steeper. We really enjoyed this trail and the views of the canyon. The Canyon View Trail, also .8 miles, would have better views if they allowed you to walk across the rock to really see the Canyon. However, debris was placed to disallow walking on the rock. So, we behaved ourselves and hiked back.
If you are traveling through Arizona, Monument Valley, you might want to stop in at the Navajo National Monument. Check out the cliff dwelling, talk to the friendly employees, and stay the night in the campground.
Antelope Canyon
Originally, we were apprehensive about the tours we booked for Antelope Canyon. Because we did not know if we would ever return to the area, we booked both the Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon Tours. We heard horror stories of being crowded like cattle into the back of trucks to visit the Slot Canyon and walking through the canyon squished like sardines.
I am not going to lie. We were herded into the back of the truck for the Upper Antelope Canyon Tour. The ride to the slot canyon was very bumpy, and I did say “moo” at one time as we laughed at our predicament. However, once we arrived, our guide was amazing.
She made sure we had plenty of time to see the Slot Canyon, while not running into any other groups. She took pictures and explained different features of the Canyon. We were pleasantly surprised by the tour.
There is only one thing that bothers me about slot canyon tours; guides always point out rocks saying they look like something else. All the slot canyons we visited are gorgeous and you are excited just to be in them. I don’t need to see a giraffe in the rock. But I assume other people like that kind of thing.
The Upper Antelope Slot Canyon is beautiful. It was worth being packed into the back of a truck. However, the Lower Antelope Canyon blew us away.
We booked our tower for the Lower Slot Canyon with Dixie’s Lower Antelope Canyon Tours. We were still led by a guide. However, you walk straight from the tour building down to the Canyon trail with no bumpy ride.
We both thought the Lower Antelope Canyon was prettier and more of a slot canyon than the Upper Antelope Canyon. We believe that the amazing pictures we associate with Antelope Canyon must have been taken in the lower Slot Canyon. This canyon tour is also cheaper than the Upper tour.
If you do visit Lower Antelope Canyon, though, be careful! As usual, I bumped my head on a rock because I was talking and not paying attention. If you can only do one tour, book the Lower Antelope Canyon tour. You will not regret it.
Sedona
Cottonwood, Arizona is only a half an hour away from Sedona, Arizona. If you research amazing things to do in Arizona, you probably will run across a lot of unforgettable hikes in this area.
Because our truck breakdown was a major one, the Ford Dealership kindly lent us a car for over a week. So, instead of lamenting our situation, we decided to go hiking. Now, there are a few things I must warn you about hiking in Sedona.
Firstly, it gets hot quick. If you are not used to heat, go early in the morning. By ten a.m., the heat is miserable. We started our hikes around 6:30 a.m.
Secondly, hiking in Sedona includes some climbing over slick rocks. For me, it meant crawling up some of the rocks on all four or scooting down on my butt. Just be aware. On every hike we did, I climbed on all fours in at least one portion of the hike.
The Devil’s Bridge Hike
To access the Devil’s Bridge Trail, you must park at the Dry Creek Parking lot located at GPS 34.89042, -111.82074. If you have a 4×4 or UHV, you can drive all the way to the trailhead. If not, you can park in a parking lot and hike the Dry Creek Road to the Devil’s Bridge Trailhead. You will need to buy a day pass or display your America the Beautiful Pass at the parking lot.
You can easily find your way to Devil’s Bridge with all the signs and other hikers enroute. The most difficult part of the hike to the Devil’s Bridge is climbing the rocks towards the end. However, it is well worth a little rock scrambling to walk out onto the arch and feel that sense of accomplishment. While you are there, take the short hike to the bottom of the bridge for a different perspective. You will enjoy it!
The Subway Cave
The Subway Cave has been on our bucket list for a few years now. Being inside the cave and looking out at the splendid scenery is exactly how it looks in the internet pictures.
To access the Subway Cave trail, we parked at the Boyton Canyon Trail Parking Lot, GPS 34.90767, -111.84904. The parking lot is located in the Cocino National Forest. You must purchase a day pass or use your America the Beautiful Pass.
You hike the Boyton Canyon Trail for two miles until you turn right at a large Alligator Juniper tree. The side hike to the cave is easy to find and chances are, you will meet other hikers also hiking to the cave. The most difficult part of this hike is definitely the entrance of the cave. If you do not want to hike around the edge of the cliff, be prepared to do some crawling up the cave entrance.
To crawl up the entrance of the cave, we started on the left side with the crevice. You can find a few footholds on this side. However, the crevice narrows and you have to switch to the right side of the entrance. Windell had to push me up by my butt a few times. To come back down, we schooched on our butts down the original right side without the crevice.
Other hikers are super helpful and will pull you and push you to get into the cave. Or, you can walk along the cliff side to enter it. Either way, you must get up into that cave because you will be amazed.
Cathedral Rock Hike
Okay, open disclaimer here. We did not complete the Cathedral Rock Hike. Firstly, I incorrectly thought we were hiking to the Church of the Holy Cross. But we were not. It was actually located across the valley.
There are some amazing views from this rock, and we decided to attempt it. However, when we reached the point of scaling through the crevice with small footholds, we both quickly gave up. Remembering our difficulties in scaling the Subway Cave entrance, we decided only the most epic view would be worth trying to come down that small crevice.
So, we hiked around the rock on a different trail to see some views and headed back to the parking lot. Sometimes it is good to know your limits.
Soldier Pass Trail
After our failure of trying to hike Cathedral Rock, it was still only seven in the morning. So, I thought, heck let’s try the Soldier Pass Trail to the Hidden Cave. We had heard from other hikers that the trail and the cave were both worth seeing, although the sacred pools were dry.
We headed to the small parking lot at GPS 34.8843, -111.78377. However, the parking lot is closed Thursday thru Sunday, and you must take the shuttle. On the rest of the days, the gates do not open unil 8 a.m. When we arrived, there was already one car waiting for the gates to open. If you want to hike early, your best option is probably the Sedona Shuttle from the Possee Grounds Park and Ride. The first shuttle is at 7:00 a.m. and arrives at the trailhead is 7:08 a.m.
However, as we sat at the closed gates at the trailhead, we looked across at each other. We didn’t want to start a Sedona hike at 8 a.m. in the heat. And we had already finished our two bucket list hikes. So, we headed back to the campground to sit in some AC.
Thousand Trails Campground at Cottonwood, Arizona
Because our truck required major repair, we had to buy an extra week while staying at this Thousand Trails Campground. We had no idea when we would be able to leave Arizona. The employees at the Campground were very friendly to us and worked with us to ensure we had a place to stay. We appreciate all of their help.
Luckily, the campground has a lot of hiking paths that kept me busy early in the mornings. I could continue exercising and we had plenty of cell service with our signal booster. So, we sat tight until our truck was fixed, taking some time out to make videos, do online classes, and write blogs.
Heading North to Cool Off
After traveling and sitting in Arizona for over a month, our truck is finally fixed. We appreciate the amazing sights, canyons, and hikes we have enjoyed. But we are ready for cooler weather!
We learned a lot about ourselves this year. Firstly, we don’t like truck camping. We are not those people who want to shower and poop outside for any extended period of time. We are a little too spoiled by programmed coffee and a bidet. However, we are glad we found this out about ourselves before we tried it in Alaska or Canada, where our little camper was not nearby to give us relief.
The second item we discovered is that we are not nearly as fond of the desert scene as we are of oceans and snow covered-mountains. Yes, there are lots of geological features and landscapes in the desert that you will not find other places. And if you enjoy seeing dinosaur tracks and ancient pueblo cliff dwellings, this area of the U.S. is perfect. However, after a summer in the desert, we are ready for cooler temperatures and some ocean adventures. Our plans for the next several years do not include any red rocks or cactuses.
Sliding on Our Butts at Famous Sedona Subway Cave
While visiting Sedona, Arizona we decided to hike to the Subway Cave. You have probably seen gorgeous pictures of this split floor cave and its amazing views. The pictures are correct. The cave is gorgeous with scenic views, and you will be glad you visited it. However, the hike to the cave and accessing the cave are an adventure unto themselves!
When we planned our 2024 trip, for some reason we decided to visit Arizona in July and August. It is hot! And, unfortunately for us, there is no ocean to play in nearby. So we made sure to arrive early for all of our hikes in Sedona, AZ.
The Subway Cave Trailhead
We found the parking lot, GPS 34°54’28.1″N 111°50’56.6″W, for the Boynton Canyon Trail and parked around six in the morning. The parking lot is easy to find, and has a vault toilet. There is a day fee, but you can use your America the Beautiful Pass.
Of course, all of the trail guides we read for the Subway Cave began by hiking the Boynton Canyon Trail until you reach the magic tree on the left. When you reach the magic tree, you turn right. Actually, we thought it would be harder to find the trail to the right, but we had no issues.
The Boynton Canyon Trail that you start on from the parking lot is a pretty easy to moderate trail. We enjoyed hiking it and taking in the views of the gorgeous canyon walls. As we hiked, we recorded the rock around us.
I kept a picture on my phone of the tree where we were to turn right to hike to the cave. However, Windell had downloaded the trail map from Alltrails for the Subway Cave and it had the correct turn on its trail guide. The trailhead is easy to find and the path is easy all the way to the cave.
Getting into the Subway Cave
Once you reach the cave, then the trail becomes more difficult and sketchier. Windell and I knew from our research that there were two ways into the cave. When we first arrived, we attempted to climb the slick rock to the cave. However, midway we decided we might need to search for another route. However, this is when we became a little confused. The companions we had met on the trail continued on around the other side of the rock. We stopped, looking up at the slick rock entrance, contemplating what we should do. Neither of us wanted to fall and break something.
Our companions finally returned, saying they had not found a back way into the cave. Since being in the cave, we now know why. There are two entrances to the cave. You can climb up the slick rock to the middle of the floor of the cave. Or, you can hike up the trail to the cave ruins to the left, make a right, and walk along the edge to enter the Subway Cave. There is no back way. With my fear of heights, I looked up at the slick rock and knew I had to go up that way.
If you are a shorter person with not much upper body strength, like me, it helps if you have someone stronger with you. Luckily, Windell climbed behind me, grabbing my butt and lifting me onto the next area when I couldn’t reach it. I don’t know if I would have made it up the rock without his help. We were not the only ones climbing up the rock with difficulty, and I had no embarrassment issues crawling for part of the way.
To get back down the cave, we took the opposite side down, putting our butts against one side and using our legs to side scramble down the other side. I am sure if you research it a little more someone will have the best way of climbing up and scrambling back down the cave entrance. But we did the best we could. If Windell was recording while I was scrambling down, it is going to be a lot of fun to watch that YouTube video.
The Subway Cave in Sedona, Arizona is as gorgeous as the pictures online. The views from the cave mouth that is divided makes it a unique experience. If you, like us, have seen the pictures and want to hike it, do it. However, don’t be afraid to take someone else along if you think you might need help up the cave entrance. I would suggest you take someone that you don’t mind if they grab your butt. However, if you arrive at the cave entrance and do struggle, you will not be the only one. Other hikers will help you reach the cave floor!
Never Again! 46 Days of Camping in a Truck
This year (2024) we decided to change up how we RV and try truck camping for the summer months. We have already written one article on our truck camping experience at https://thenonsenseofwj.com/truck-camping-for-a-summer/. As we only had one Thousand Trail Campground in the state of Colorado and none in Utah, we believed, incorrectly as it turned out, that this was the best way to experience these states. Even Passport America and RPI in these states are few and far between. So, instead of paying for campgrounds throughout the summer, we chose to camp in our truck.
Boondocking
Now, we know many people boondock and leave their campers while they go exploring. However, we are not yet comfortable with this. Also, we do not want to feel obligated to put external cameras and security alarms on our camper. We have many friends who boondock all the time and some who boondocked when they began RVing. Although, a few did have a few items left outside stolen, they still recommend boondocking. As everyone tells us, simply stay where you feel comfortable and introduce yourself to your neighbors. However, let us face it, we are glampers. We like campgrounds and full-hookups. Yes, sewer please!
We have boondocked in some spots this year that we would be comfortable leaving the camper during the day to go adventuring. Tom’s Best Spring Road near Bryce Canyon is one such spot. These are designated dispersed camping in the Dixie National Forest. There were many other campers around and we felt very comfortable here. The couple in the Class A beside us even introduced themselves and were very friendly.
However, many times when we are boondocking in Colorado or Utah at a site we found with Campendium or IOverlander, we are by ourselves in the middle of nowhere. We are definitely not comfortable leaving our travel trailer fby itself in these areas while we go off exploring.
Truck Camping
So, we camped in the back our truck for 46 days. We explored mainly Utah, a little of Arizona and Wyoming, and some of Colorado. When we first started, we had a futon in the back of the truck. We could lay the futon down for sleeping. And we could sit up on the futon during the day. However, the futon was much too large for the space. At our age, sleeping on a futon was very uncomfortable and our backs let us know it was not working. So, we broke down the futon with a sledge hammer and strapped it to the top of the truck. Luckily, we found a dumpster at a rest stop with plenty of room to throw in the futon.
We replaced the futon with a mattress topper three inches thick and another smaller topper with bumps. The mattress topper was pretty comfortable for sleeping. During the day, when we loaded the truck back up, we just rolled the toppers to the back of the truck bed. Sitting in the truck bed on the mattress toppers was not as comfortable as the futon. But we made it work.
During our 46 days, we also purchased a larger 55 quart cooler and a 5 gallon drinking cooler. The smaller cooler that we carried was too small and the ice melted too quickly. So, we bought some new ones in Utah. Boy, did they come in handy. While boondocking in Utah, the state had a sudden heat wave. The new coolers made the heat wave almost bearable. We had cold drinking water and our new 55 quart cooler kept ice much longer. Luckily, most gas stations and grocery stores in Utah sell block ice. We bought block ice for the food cooler and cubed ice to add to our drinks. We bought a lot of ice crazy amout of ice in Utah! However, the block ice and the new coolers lasted several days in the heat wave.
The Truck Camping Diet
Our food while camping in the truck mainly consisted of tuna fish, packaged noodles and rice, instant potatoes, and oatmeal. We both lost a lot of weight. If you are wanting to shed some pounds, try our new and improved truck camping diet for a couple of months! Of course, we were also very active in Utah. We did a lot of hiking! Sometimes we would even find hikes while traveling before we ate breakfast. When we hiked the Grand Wash Trail in Capital Reef National Park, we had planned on eating breakfast at the Visitor’s Center. However, we found the hiking trail first. So, we ate granola bars to sustain us while we hiked.
Unsurprisingly, we lost a lot of weight. We usually eat red meat pretty frequently. However, keeping hamburger in a cooler in a heat wave was not our idea of fun. So, we ate a lot of canned meat. Hence, the tuna fish. Sometimes we would throw in some canned chicken and fajita strips. FYI, canned meat is very expensive compared to buying raw hamburger and chicken. Especially as we usually buy our groceries at Aldi – our favorite grocery store. Since we are back in our RV and have our awesome refrigerator, we can eat our normal again. We will probably gain our weight back.
Right now, though, our clothes are a lot looser. Windell must wear a belt for his pants. Jessica has to tie her shorts and pants even tighter. Maybe Jessica will even wear the bikini that Windell wants her to wear in her fifties, if she can keep the weight off. Probably not though.
So Much Dirt
Dirt is the main constant while camping in the truck in the desert. We purchased pump sprayers before we started this journey. Although we usually do not shower every day normally, we do like to stay clean, shave, and wash our hair. So, we purchased three pump sprayers and a gravity camping shower for us.
The cheap, gravity camping shower did not work well. Maybe we are a little spoiled. However, it did not have enough pressure to even remove shampoo. We put it up as high as we could on the truck to no avail. So, we mainly used our pump sprayers for showering. The naked person would stand in the poop tent while the other person hosed them down. It took two people to shower. By yourself, you could not get the little head at the right angle to rinse your hair.
The pump sprayers did get us cleaner, for a little bit. However, showering outside in the desert means you are showering in the dirt. Everything is dirty. We bought a cheap little rubber mat to stand on while we showered in the toilet tent. But we were so dirty. Dirt just ran off us onto the mat and then the ground. Even though the mat was easy to spray off where you stood, the underneath was all muddy. At the end of the truck camping, we were so tired of trying to get the dirt off that we just counted the number of days to the campground and our travel trailer.
While returning from Wyoming to Colorado, we treated ourselves and stayed at a nice hotel. We felt so sorry for the hotel staff. After we finished showering, the washcloths were so dirty and we could not rinse all the dirt out. However, we felt awesome! Our hair was clean and not greasy. We put on clean clothes that were not covered in red dirt. And, we even had a huge, free breakfast with cookies!
After several more days of traveling and adding dirt to ourselves and the truck, we finally returned to our travel trailer. We were both so filthy. When we each had a long shower, we were several shades lighter on our skin. What we thought was tan was dirt! Also, being able to really scrub our toes in a shower without standing on more dirt was the best feeling.
Truck camping in non-desert states may be completely different for keeping clean. However, in Utah, the wind blows dirt everywhere. The pump sprayers are not going to get you clean. And, forget about the gravity shower! While hiking, riding the shuttles, or even bumping along in the Jeep tour, we knew we were those people whom everyone shimmies away from. We did try to stay clean, use deodorant and shave. However, trying to keep clean while camping is a lot harder without a pressurized shower and clean floor.
Disorganization can be Fun – Not
It does not matter how organized you try to be while truck camping. Things become very chaotic quickly. We thought we were so smart. All our clothes were labeled and we put all the items we thought we would use daily in the side compartment of the camper shell. We tried to be organized! However, because almost everything had to be pulled out of the back of the truck to sleep every day, things became disorganized instantly. Bathroom and shower items got mixed in with kitchen items. Forks were placed in our hiking backpacks instead of the silverware container.
Camping in the Truck was a whole different ballgame than living in our RV. Everything was out of place. Although it was hard to pull things out from underneath the futon, we did have more storage area. When we removed the futon, many items had to put on the hitch or crammed in the back of the truck bed. So, things were easily misplaced. Windell could not wait to return to his trailer just so he could put his stuff in its place and it would stay there.
When we were considering purchasing a pop-up truck camper for future trips, we watched You-Tubers who lived in their truck campers full-time. They added solar, indoor toilets, sinks, etc. However, we have decided we are not those people. We are the type of people who do not want to try to fit all our living into the back of our truck. We want indoor showers, a refrigerator, a flush toilet, and toys for our hobbies. The truck camper is not large enough for us to live in full-time. It is okay for a few days for some amazing adventuring, but then we want to return to our travel trailer with all of its comforts.
So, we will not be buying a new pop-up camper shell or slide in truck camper. We are going to enjoy coffee programmed in the morning and everything organized and always in its place. Our amazing little travel trailer will travel across the U.S. with us.
We did it!
Wow, we actually camped in our truck for 46 days and didn’t get divorced. Some of the YouTubers we watch truck camp a week or two. They live in houses and travel and adventure part-time. We do know that there are people who live in their vehicles full-time. We say Kudos to you! It is not for us. A truck camper does not provide all the comforts and benefits of the travel trailer. Oh, sure, we will still vehicle camp every once in a great while……for a couple of days…..before we return to our refrigerator and shower.